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Arco #2

·4 mins
Arco campsite

Spent the weekend in Arco for the second time. Last time was all about easy multi-pitching, so this time we came back for the sport climbing. And the sun and the gelato, of course.

Camp site Arco

We stayed at Camping Arco, one of my favourite camp sites. For this trip, we wanted to take things easy and was searching for a vertical 5c-6c range with good bolting and unpolished rock. Here were some recs from friends:

Day 1 #

Le Piazzole

Le Piazzole is a 20 mins drive then a long steep approach up to the crag. It’s a relatively new crag with gym-level good bolting, great belay stations in the shade, and easy fingery vertical slab climbing. I found the routes to be a bit monotonous and wish we had explored around a bit more in different sections, but overall super happy with this choice. The view from the top is also amazing! All the 5c, 6as were pretty easy, but struggled on a 6b a little bit and took me a few tries. Rocks are quite sharp though, so lost quite a bit of skin.

Le Piazzole

Arco is a climber’s shopping paradise because of all the climbing and outdoor gear shops in the city center. I don’t usually love shopping, but it was too tempting even for me. Especially loved PARVAT Clothing, bought a shirt from there.

We had dinner at Pizzeria Ristorante alla Pace, really delicious.

Day 2 #

Abandoned castle?

The next day, we went to a crag called Regina del Lago, which was also 20 mins drive, and a 30 min approach. It’s not a short approach but the walk isn’t so steep and it’s well paved + the view is really enjoyable.

Rappeling

There are 4 sectors, A to D. We stayed in B/C, C had a few short multi-pitches so J and I started with one of the easier routes. Super easy, super well bolted but too much faff to be enjoyable. Should’ve stuck to single pitches. Went to sector B for a quick attempt at a 6a+, which was enjoyable. I really need to improve my overhangs.

In general, I tend to give up a bit too easily on hard moves or when I get pumped and ask too quickly to be taken. Need to stop doing that.

Anyway, overall pretty happy with the weekend. Super relaxing and absorbed a lot of sun for another work week.

rope coiled

lake view

K on the rock!

What’s next? #

Some suggestions from Claude for next time. (note to self)

Best crags for vertical 5b–6c (late April) #

  • Castel Madruzzo (~30 min) — 30 m vertical face, fully rebolted 2023, 24 routes 6a–7c+. Best overall match. Quieter than the classics.
  • Belvedere, Sector B (~15 min) — pocketed limestone, 10–24 m. “Warm Up” (6b, 16 m) is the go-to. Arrive early on weekends.
  • Calvario (walkable from Arco) — recently rebolted, new easy lines on the left at 5b–6a. Morning sun, afternoon shade.
  • Muro dell’Asino, Sector 2 (~10 min) — west-facing, afternoon sun. Some polish on the easier lines but 30 m routes in Sector 2 are worth it.
  • Massone, San Martino sub-sector (~5 min) — modern bolting, short (9–15 m). Good confidence-builder. Avoid classic Policromuro 5s — badly polished.

Conditions in late April — prime season. 14–17 °C, friction-friendly. Watch for Ora wind at exposed crags (Belvedere). Weekends busy — aim to be at the crag by 9 am.

For multi-pitch — Regina del Lago (~25–30 min). Via Sesto Senso (6a, 110 m) and Via Settimo Cielo (5c, 120 m) are well-bolted and not polished.

Skip — Nago (closed since 2022 wildfire, check status locally), Spiaggia delle Lucertole (pure slab), Pizzeria/Nomesino (too hard).

Practical — 70 m rope, 12–14 draws. Don’t leave anything in your car at Belvedere/Nago. Topo: Arco Rock (Versante Sud, 2022) or Vertical-Life app.

Also … #

On the drive home, we saw some nice rocks!